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February 8, 2008 > Arts & Entertainment > Note to Zoes: Feta a good meal does not make

Note to Zoes: Feta a good meal does not make

By Nikki Metzgar | Thresher Editorial Staff

We obviously do not live in New York City. So although the ladies of Sex and the City (my most extensive experience of the Big Apple, sadly) wait in line for hours outside a hip new eatery, or flirt their way to the front of the crowd, Houstonians have no equivalent for this experience.

The closest Houston gets to this is the highly stylized sandwich shops in the Montrose and lower-Shepherd area that are so popular. Zoes Kitchen, which opened on S. Shepherd a month ago, is one such restaurant. With a modern, industrial feel, sunny green and orange decor and the tagline “Eat Smart. Eat Fresh,” Zoes’ outward appearance appeals almost perfectly to denizens of the area.

Unfortunately, the food itself is neither creative nor tasty. The fast-casual menu is Greek-influenced, which in reality translates to covering most of the food with feta cheese. The slaw, Zoes’ signature side, consists of shredded cabbage, scallions and heaps of feta, all marinated in vinaigrette. The flavor is there, but only if you like feta.

The Greek Pita, composed of grilled chicken, some pallid lettuce, tomatoes and caramelized onions, is also sprinkled with the ubiquitous feta. While the sandwich does not taste bad, it is also not anything special. The cold, thin pita could have come from anywhere and once you eat away the toppings, only slightly bland chicken remains.

The Chicken Roll-ups are the best-selling sandwich and although the menu mentions feta, the sad-sack tortillas are only plumped slightly with chicken. The accent ingredients are mysteriously M.I.A. The salsa that comes with it is comparable to Picante sauce, and who does Zoe think she’s kidding? We live in Texas. Impostor salsa is almost absurd in this setting.

The potato salad side is actually likeable, especially for those in the mayonnaise-eschewing minority. The mashed red potatoes and the green scallions create a festive concert of color and the salad has a lemony zing to it that is refreshing. Zoes does stick to its healthy eating angle, but unfortunately perpetuates the misconception that food that is good for you is unsatisfying to the palate and belly.

In the face of these options, it makes sense to ask someone who works there and is more familiar with the food to make a recommendation. The Chicken Salad Sandwich, “our fave,” is the answer one receives to such a question but sadly, not to one’s desire for satisfying provisions. The chicken salad is overly-wet and tasteless, although the 7-grain bread it sits on is delicious.

Too bad, friendly counter-guy, the chicken salad is not quite worthy of favorite status. Actually, everyone who works at Zoes is very affable and seems to genuinely want customers to be happy. But even that is not quite worth the rest of the excursion.

Despite the food being only mediocre, the restaurant’s ordering system requires buying a meal with sandwich, a side and some pointless chips for $7.45. For that kind of money a full, warm lunch can be had in countless establishments across Houston. For that matter an authentic Greek meal or a better sandwich can be as well.

Perhaps the many ladies-who-lunch need to hear this information but most likely they would continue to dine at Zoes anyway because it is the type of place that benefits more from the neighborhood in which it resides than anything it actually has to offer.

End of article

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